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An Injustice!

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Fashion’s Hidden Flaws

Unraveling bias on the runway

9 min readFeb 7, 2024

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Credit: Concepts App
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The spotlight on bias in fashion

Fashion: it’s more than just fabric and threads. It’s a powerful cultural force that shapes identities, dictates trends, and influences perceptions across the globe. From the red carpets of Hollywood to the bustling streets of Tokyo, what we wear speaks volumes about who we are and the world we inhabit.

Yet, beneath the glamour and glitz, the fashion industry harbours biases that often go unnoticed or unaddressed. Discrimination based on race, size, gender, and socio-economic status subtly weaves itself into the very fabric of fashion, affecting everything from the designs we see on the runway to the choices available at our local boutiques. This insidious bias not only impacts the careers of aspiring designers and models but also infiltrates the psyche of everyday consumers.

In lifting the veil on the fashion industry, we must confront and examine these biases. Only by shining a spotlight on these issues can we hope to unravel the entrenched prejudices and foster a more inclusive and equitable sartorial landscape.

Historical context: A walk down the bias-infused runway

Diving into the archives of fashion history, it’s evident that the industry has been steeped in biases from its inception. Discrimination based on race, size, gender, and socio-economic status has long coloured the runway, casting shadows on what is often perceived as an industry of glamour and beauty.

From the exclusive haute couture houses of Paris in the early 20th century to the glossy pages of fashion magazines, racial bias has been unmistakable. For decades, the spotlight has primarily shone on white models, leaving little room for diverse representation. This Eurocentric focus created a narrow and exclusionary vision of beauty that persisted for years.

Simultaneously, size discrimination took center stage, with a relentless pursuit of an often unattainable thin ideal. This sizeism created a hostile environment for anyone not fitting the mould, further alienating a significant portion of the population.

Gender bias, too, has played its role. The fashion industry has often perpetuated rigid gender norms, dictating what is ‘appropriate’ attire for different genders and thereby limiting self-expression.

Socio-economic discrimination also made its mark, with luxury brands often being out of reach for the masses. The fashion hierarchy, defined by price tags and brand names, created a clear divide between the ‘haves’ and the ‘have-nots’.

Yet, it’s crucial to acknowledge that while these biases have historical roots, they have not remained static. Over time, there has been an evolution, albeit slow, towards greater inclusivity and representation. The biases persist, but the conversation around them has shifted, challenging the status quo and urging for change. Today, the fight for a more equitable fashion industry continues, with every stride on the runway echoing the steps taken toward a more inclusive future.

Dressed in discrimination: The impact of racial bias

The fashion industry, while celebrated for its creativity, has often faltered in terms of racial representation. The lack of diversity in models, designers, and executives has been stark, revealing a monochromatic view of beauty and creativity that falls short of reality.

The runways have historically been dominated by white models, echoing a troubling preference that marginalizes talent of colour. Design houses, too, have seen a scarcity of racial diversity within their creative and leadership ranks. This paucity is more than just a visual discrepancy; it speaks to opportunities denied and voices silenced.

Compounding the issue is the rampant cultural appropriation in fashion designs. Traditional garments, patterns, and accessories from various cultures are often plucked from their context and paraded on the runway with little regard for their cultural significance. This superficial borrowing is a problematic testament to the industry’s skewed approach to diversity. Rather than genuine inclusion, it often results in erasure and commodification.

Addressing racial bias in fashion isn’t just about checking boxes. It necessitates a deeper shift — a move from appropriation to appreciation, from exclusion to true representation. By recognizing and critiquing these issues, we pave the way for an industry that celebrates the rich tapestry of cultures and individuals that compose our world.

One size doesn’t fit all: The struggle with sizeism

The fashion industry’s portrayal of beauty has long been confined to a limited and often unrealistic spectrum. The preference for thin models has remained a stubborn constant, rendering countless individuals invisible and feeding into harmful narratives surrounding body image.

The runways and fashion advertisements are inundated with a singular body type: tall, wafer-thin, and often, unattainable. This narrow definition of beauty disregards the vast and diverse array of body types and shapes that people come in. By idealizing a single silhouette, the fashion industry implicitly suggests that any deviation is less than desirable.

The repercussions of sizeism are far-reaching and deeply ingrained. For consumers, especially impressionable young individuals, the relentless exposure to a ‘preferred’ body type can lead to damaging self-perception and mental health consequences. The internalization of these ideals may trigger feelings of inadequacy, fostering unhealthy eating habits and distorted body image.

By critically analyzing the industry’s perpetuation of sizeism, we unearth the urgency for change. It’s high time for fashion to embrace a broader spectrum of beauty — one that is inclusive and celebratory of all sizes. In doing so, we pave the way for a healthier societal relationship with our bodies and foster a culture of acceptance and self-love.

Gendered wardrobes: Confronting gender bias

The fashion industry, while often a canvas for self-expression, has been guilty of perpetuating rigid gender norms and stereotypes. Historically, fashion trends have sought to distinctly categorize what is ‘feminine’ and ‘masculine’, leaving little room for deviation or exploration.

From pink for girls and blue for boys to skirts for women and trousers for men, the industry has long dictated what is ‘appropriate’ for each gender. These seemingly innocuous trends have ripple effects, reinforcing stereotypes and stifling individual expression.

However, the landscape is changing. In recent years, there has been a noticeable shift towards dismantling these archaic norms. The emergence of gender-neutral and inclusive fashion lines speaks to a growing acknowledgment of diverse gender identities and expressions. Designers are creating collections that defy categorization, encouraging wearers to choose garments that resonate with their identity, irrespective of societal expectations.

This shift is not just a fleeting trend; it’s indicative of a broader movement toward inclusivity and respect. By confronting gender bias head-on and celebrating the emergence of inclusive fashion, the industry takes strides toward true self-expression, unfettered by outdated norms.

Wealthy wardrobes: Socio-economic bias and accessibility

The glimmering world of fashion, with its luxury brands and haute couture, has often been an exclusive realm, accessible only to the privileged few. The steep price tags attached to high-end brands effectively shut out a large segment of society, rendering fashion a domain of socio-economic bias.

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Luxury branding, while aspirational, often thrives on exclusivity. The allure of designer labels is partly predicated on their inaccessibility to the masses. This creates a dichotomy between those who can afford the luxury of choice and those who must prioritize necessity over style.

On the flip side, the fashion industry has seen the rise of fast fashion — an attempt to democratize style by providing trendy clothing at affordable prices. However, this solution is fraught with ethical concerns. The pursuit of low costs often leads to exploitation, with labourers working in substandard conditions for meagre wages. In the race to keep up with trends, environmental sustainability is also frequently compromised.

The conversation around socio-economic bias in fashion, therefore, is twofold. It involves questioning the exclusivity of luxury brands and examining the ethical implications of fast fashion. In navigating this complex terrain, the industry is challenged to find a middle ground that is both inclusive and ethical, ensuring that fashion is accessible without compromising on human rights and environmental responsibility.

Breaking the bias: Initiatives and movements towards inclusion

In recent years, the fashion industry has witnessed a surge of initiatives aiming to break down biases and foster a more inclusive environment. This shift towards diversity and inclusion marks a significant departure from tradition and signals a positive change.

High-profile fashion events and brands have started showcasing a broader spectrum of models, celebrating different body sizes, ethnicities, and abilities. Runways are becoming more reflective of the world around us, and inclusive casting is challenging long-standing norms of beauty.

Designers are also stepping up, with some pioneering gender-neutral collections that transcend traditional boundaries. Brands are embracing the fluidity of fashion and recognizing the diverse ways in which individuals express their identities through clothing.

Socio-economic biases are also being addressed, with some brands exploring sustainable and ethically produced fashion that is both accessible and responsible. Initiatives promoting ethical labour practices and environmental sustainability are gaining traction.

However, despite these strides, there’s still a long journey ahead. Certain biases remain deeply ingrained, and the industry must continually reassess its practices to ensure lasting change. The progress made is commendable, but the need for vigilance and sustained effort is paramount.

In reckoning with its biases, the fashion industry is charting a course toward a future that is as diverse, vibrant, and inclusive as the people it seeks to adorn. By celebrating progress and diligently working towards rectifying shortcomings, fashion can truly become a space for everyone.

A future tailored for all: Recommendations for equity

Creating a fashion industry that is inclusive, equitable, and free of biases is a collective endeavour. Actionable steps must be taken by all stakeholders to dismantle longstanding prejudices and create a space that celebrates diversity.

Dismantling biases and fostering inclusivity

  • Diverse Representation: Brands should commit to inclusive casting of models, ensuring representation across different sizes, races, abilities, and genders.
  • Design for All: Designers can pioneer collections that cater to diverse audiences, including adaptive clothing and gender-neutral options.
  • Socio-Economic Inclusion: Luxury brands could explore affordable lines without compromising quality, and fast fashion brands should prioritize ethical and sustainable practices.
  • Educational Initiatives: Fashion schools and institutions should incorporate diversity and inclusivity training, cultivating a new generation of conscious designers.

Consumer awareness and responsibility

  • Conscious consumption: Consumers can actively support brands that align with ethical and inclusive values, using purchasing power to effect change.
  • Demand transparency: Consumers should demand transparency from brands regarding their labour practices, supply chains, and commitment to inclusivity.
  • Promote sustainability: Embracing sustainable fashion and rejecting fast fashion’s disposability can lead to a more equitable industry.

By actively working towards these recommendations, the fashion industry can evolve into a space that not only acknowledges diversity but thrives on it. Equally, consumers hold the power to shape the industry through mindful choices, ushering in a future that is tailored for all.

Final stitch: Reflecting on the journey and the road ahead

The fashion industry, once a bastion of exclusivity and unyielding standards, is in the midst of a transformation. Steps towards inclusivity and equity have been taken, with runways reflecting more diversity, brands embracing ethical practices, and designers challenging norms.

Yet, this journey is far from over. While strides towards a more inclusive industry are commendable, the reality is that biases run deep, and dismantling them requires continuous, relentless effort.

Weaving equity into the fabric of fashion is not a one-time endeavour but an ongoing commitment. It demands vigilance and a willingness to question, challenge, and evolve. Every stitch, every fabric choice, every model cast, and every design carries with it the potential to either uphold biases or challenge them.

The road ahead is long and requires collective responsibility — from designers and brands to consumers and influencers. In acknowledging the progress made and recognizing the work still to be done, we chart a course towards an industry that doesn’t just adorn but also respects and celebrates humanity in all its vibrant diversity.

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As always, bigotry or any defence of bigotry in my comments will not be tolerated. Be kind, be equitable, and be inclusive.

What do you think the fashion industry can do to be more inclusive to more kinds of bodies?

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Written by Mason Fouks

I'm Mason, as in the jar. I'm a DEI communicator. Patreon: patreon.com/AsInTheJar. Linktree: linktr.ee/AsInTheJar

Published in An Injustice!

A new intersectional publication, geared towards voices, values, and identities!